- Pick quality clothing.
- Seams.
- Stitch length. Longer stitches are more prone snagging, being cut, and lead to weaker seams.
- Seam tightness. Hold seams to light and very gently pull each side apart. If light goes through and fabric isn't sheer, clothing has structural problems.
- Pattern matching. Bold and regular patterns (stripes, checkers, tartan, etc.) should match on straight seams.
- Seam allowance. Smaller seam allowances mean less fit customization allowances.
- Zippers.
- Invisible zips on tight-fitting garments are prone to sticking and splitting.
- Wider widths on the close teeth generally mean stronger garments, and are preferably in snugger ones.
- Avoid less than 4mm zips.
- Edge finishing.
- Serged/overlocked edges are generally weak and contain lots of floating threads which can catch and pull, especially on looser weaves that are prone to fraying. Generally okay when not doing structural work.
- Avoid fraying edges.
- More durable edge finishing: binding (second piece of fabric sewn around raw edge), flat felling, fringe seaming.
- Avoid long loose threads, and loose loops, especially on the buttons.
- Materials.
- Pick a material most appropriate for the context of the garment.
- Warm weather: cotton, linen, naturally white plant fiber, looser weaves and cuts
- Cool weather: wool, heavy silks, tightly woven fabrics, tight fits
- Synthetics (polyesters, viscoses, acetates) tend to look and feel bad, but can be decent if not worn next to skin. Sweaty, stinks fast.
- Wool: inexpensive outer fibers can be itchy, but inner fibers can be soft.
- If made of synthetics and worn close to skin, should have a natural fiber inner lining.
- Weave.
- Lots of loose floats will catch and snap and become difficult to repair.
- Interiors of brocades and intricately woven fabric are expected to have many loose threads, but it should be lines for extra protection.
- Looser weaves are more delicate and prone to snagging, but good for light-weight and flowy garments.
- Consistency, especially in linen.
- Lining.
- Light-weight garments generally shouldn't have heavy lining.
- Heavy trousers generally don't need lining.
- Essential for more formal garments with internal structure.
- Brand new garments should not have strong pungent odors.
- Structure and shape should hold even without being worn
Building a Wardrobe
Practical Dressing Tips
- Wear a natural fabric inner layer, especially with synthetic garments, to preserve the synthetic garment's freshness, reduce washes, and prevent it from becoming stinky.
Styling